Angular mini dresses and trouser suits made out of heavyweight fabrics featured alongside cut out midriffs worn with no bras. Aiming to make his couture clothing more accessible, he produced fifteen different designs in four to five sizes and had them mass produced. This enabled them to be sold at twenty percent of the usual price.
The couturier's love of sharp lines and the angular crispness of his forms reflected his background in engineering. The "white" salon, as the studio was known, personified the designer's ideals of functionality and practicality with its modern minimalist decor. The new decade saw the establishment of the designer's first fragrance, Empreinte, in along with a men's ready-to-wear line in The need to reach a mass-market audience brought with it the lower-priced Hyperbole line in the early s, and the desire to solidify a world-renowned brand name through profitable licensing arrangements led to the sale of the company in to the Japanese firm Itokin.
His lasting impact on fashion design was his astute recognition of the revolution launched by the younger generation. The explosion of the "youthquake" onto the scene fundamentally altered the direction of fashion in the s. Fashion now not only celebrated the present but also looked forward to the future. Furthermore, the fall collections represented a direct backward glance at youthquake fashion.
White and metallic "lunar" shades with occasional splashes of bright color dominated the palette. Geometrical lines were everywhere. The miniskirt reappeared in full force at Chanel, Marc Jacobs, and Donna Karan, while midcalf leather boots accessorized mod ensembles at Moschino and Tommy Hilfiger.
He had been born in Pau, in the French Basque country and kept the accent ; studied as a civil engineer keen on architecture and textiles; and served as a pilot in the French air force during the second world war, recalling especially the sky-blue flannelette of the pyjamas issued to US forces who landed in France in — such good cloth.
After the war he pursued design in Paris and joined a minor fashion house. If his clothes had been created in deep colours, and cut to fit the contours of an adult woman, their debt to Balenciaga would have been more obvious. His models, despite their white gloves and stiff helmets, seemed to be females of the future.
They would dominate the streets. He made designs out of clear plastic derived from vegetable fibres. And he took inspiration from sportswear, creating clothes in stretch fabrics and knits that you find everywhere today.
Yet for all his innovation, fashion moved faster. Felice is sticking to the house codes, while injecting it with a dose of modernity. The clothes should make you look good, and they should be made in a way that respects the environment and good labor conditions.
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