If you use extremely low angle forward stroke technique, add about 5cm to the above. If you use extremely high angle forward stroke technique, subtract about 5cm. For two-person sea kayaks, paddle lengths of — cm are typical, again depending on the height and width of the kayak. Most double sea kayaks are too wide to use a very high angle stroke technique, so there is less individual variation in paddle length for doubles than with single kayaks. Contrary to some conventional wisdom, for two-person kayaks it is best to have both paddles be the same length and style.
If one paddler in a double is stronger than the other, the stronger one can pull harder on their paddle without getting out of sync, as long as both paddles are the same just as when pedaling a two person bike, both sets of pedals go around at the same rpm regardless of whether one person is doing all the work or both are putting out equal power.
But if one person uses a shorter paddle than their partner in a double kayak then you will have to constantly adjust your strokes to stay in sync. Ideally do this test with several paddles that all have the same model blades. SOT fishing kayaks tend to be much wider than sea kayaks to add stability for casting especially if standing up in the kayak so they require paddles with longer shaft lengths. Also some angler kayaks have high seat heights or the ability to raise and lower the seat , and the higher you sit in a kayak the longer your paddle needs to be.
SOT anglers tend to use paddles from cm - cm i. When the switch from wood to fiberglass was made, most paddle builders choose a common size off-the-shelf fiberglass tube which was slightly smaller but over time it proved to be strong enough for most people and significantly lighter than the old wooden paddle shafts. Few people noticed the reduction in diameter from the old standard size wood shaft, and before long these smaller fiberglass shafts became the new standard size Later when carbon paddle shafts came on the scene, they copied the popular diameter used on fiberglass shafts, and even most newer wood paddles have submitted to roughly this diameter shaft.
The significant point here is that what became the standard size shaft was never size by paddling ergonomics. So most people with average sized or larger hands will benefit by adding some heat shrink tubing or other material around their paddle shaft to thicken it up. If you have small hands, then the standard size paddle shaft may be about right without adding anything to thicken it.
It's a canoeing axiom that the closer to the keel-line you paddle, the less directional correction is needed. Try J, C or pitch-stroking with a 50 inch bent-shaft, then switch to a BIG difference!
The longer paddle covers more distance in the water so less "angle correction" less "pitch" or pry is needed to keep the canoe on course. Bent blades are also kinder to your body. There's less twisting of the shaft and your hand during the stroke so carpal-tunnel and tennis-elbow aches are minimized. This is a huge advantage if you paddle a solo canoe for hours at a time.
Paddling with a bent-shaft is best described as more "push down than pull back". With a straight paddle it's more "pull back". This saves your arms and back. The "rolled-ever" directional grip of the bent-paddle allows a more relaxed hold-you don't have to clutch the grip as firmly as with a straight paddle.
Cross-bow draws are more efficient too because the outward angled blade has more reach. Some blades have thick supporting splines on one or both sides for stiffening. Splines are noisy and they act like an airplane wing and create lift. Blades should run neutral in the water. Splined blades don't! Some canoeists have a shedful of paddles, each with different lengths and bends to suit their needs.
But good paddles are pricey and if you can afford just one or two, my preference would be a 54 inch, degree preferably ultralight carbon-fiber model and a 56 inch straight paddle for rapids. Paddling in very rocky rivers, in fast changing currents, or narrow streams often find the paddle coming up against harder objects, and the hardwoods used in the Wilderness option are much more able to handle this repeatedly without suffering major damage.
Finally, nearly all of our performance paddles excepting the Minnewashta, and Primary Paddle feature a rock guard at the tip of the paddle. This epoxy tip is very tough and will save your blade from the occasional swipe or push against a rock. Our Artisan and Minnewashta paddles lack this feature, so use extra care with those paddles. Sizing One of the most important details in choosing a paddle, its size must be right to ensure comfortable use, especially during longer days on the water.
Bent Shaft vs. Straight Shaft Aside from simply choosing what is most comfortable, the main trade-off in choosing between a bent shaft or a straight shaft is a decision between more power and more deft strokes. Durability Most of our paddles offer three durability choices: Standard, Wilderness, and Lightweight. What are you looking for? Bent-shaft paddles work best on flat water and slow-moving rivers.
So, why not have both? Have a straight-shaft paddle available for whitewater and technical paddling. Have a bent-shaft paddle ready to take on your next multi-day trip. Plus it never hurts to have a spare paddle in the canoe… just in case. If you have more questions, please call our Wisconsin-based Customer Service team at Close menu. Canoe Paddles.
0コメント